Quanjude

The little area-specific tourist map I got at my hostel shows a ‘roast duck restaurant’. I was very happy to find it was a branch of Quanjude, the quintessential Beijing roast duck.

Quanjude is famous not only because of the food but because it was a favourite of Zhou Enlai. The second floor has a ‘history wall’ with pictures and autographs of famous people who have eaten there. (The ambassador who wrote, ‘Very good restoron! Many happy!’ should have used his or her own language.) I got there early and walked past a row of a dozen servers who each greeted me.


A carver slicing up my half duck. You could hear the skin crackle while he was doing it. I had to flap an arm to get him to give me the wing. He finished, with a flourish, by adding the head which I nibbled on but didn't eat much of. The duck came with the traditional accoutrements - hoisin (maybe tianmianjiang) and slivered scallions as well as ketchup, shredded lettuce, and a little dish of sliced peppers, garlic, and pickles. The garlic was an inspired addition, great with the skin. They bring a little bowl of nearly white duck broth at the end. Some things are so good you don't notice you are getting full and when I left I felt like I would never have to eat again.