Tuesday, May 1, 2007

Antique and Art markets

Dufu’s Cottage is in a big park close to the west first ring. It’s been towards the bottom of my list of places to visit in the city for a while and I finally made it out there on Labour Day, which falls on May 1 here. Turned out the admission fee was higher than I expected, so I didn’t go in. My disappointment was only temporary because there is a very un-touristy antique and jewelry market right beside the entrance.


Because it is a holiday, many of the stalls were closed but several vendors had wares laid out on the ground – mostly jade, some pottery, old coins and such. The atmosphere is typical of a market here – very laid back, with vendors sleeping or playing cards. Besides the outdoor area, there is a large multistory building full of dusty stalls. One of them had quite a few Shu artifacts and bronze. It was very neat to walk around in, but places like this make the language barrier so frustrating – I would really like to understand this stuff more, ask about it and converse about it, but can’t.

I also walked back to the Songxian Bridge curio art city, an art market between Dufu’s cottage and the Green Ram Temple. This place was fantastic – lots of high end and low end stuff, artists working.

Some Chinese cubism:


I found a jewelry store packed with pieces that did not look Chinese at all, with different stones – turquoise and carnelian. I recognized the ‘om’ symbol on some of them. I asked the vendor about one type of ornament but couldn’t understand his answer except that everything was from Tib*t. He was also Tib*tan and was telling me good places to visit in China (using Sichuanhua - Qinghai province is ‘hao de hen’). I will definitely return to that store, it was great.

There was one guy doing fabulously detailed pictures as wood burnings. He had a tool that looked a bit like a dull chisel on the end. The pictures he could make with such a rough looking tool were amazing. One of the neater shops was full of Commun*st memorabilia – there were large portraits of Marx, Engels, Ma*, Len*n, and Stal*n. The shop also had sunny triptychs of workers, peasants, and people gathered in a circle contentedly studying a red book.

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